October 17, 2007

Just when you think it cannot get any better, it does.
We shouldn’t be surprised by this – it’s been true every day since we started this escapade, but still, what a day.

Last night the rains came and deposited a light dusting of snow in the mountains that made the spectacular views even more majestic and the musicians provided an excellent soundtrack as always, even taking time to teach a couple of the sherpas to play a few bars. This morning we left the most amazing hostel behind; great beds, great heaters, great meals, great staff, great views…it was hard to leave – and if anyone asks, we were roughing it in tents – but leave we did on what was meant to be one of the longer trekking days.

We set out from Tashinga with plans to stop for lunch near the ancient, but glorious monastery at Thyangboche. The location would make any real estate agent salivate with it’s incredible Everest views and it’s understandable why the production crew worked so hard to get permission to film a short music video there, . From what I heard the High Lama was pleased and happily starred in the video giving special blessings to Mike and James and wishing “strength and safety” for our group as a whole. (see the message from Mike below)

We all had a good lunch afterwards and catnapped in the sun until Ade cracked the whip and encouraged us onward and upwards towards Pangboche. The route was blessed with amazing views, not only of the mountains around us, but of the rushing river we crossed earlier in the day over a handmade wooden bridge covered with new prayer flags flapping in the cool mountain breeze. Looking down everyone was impressed with how far we’ve come in such a short time. And for the first time today the path was filled not only with infecting scent of “Eau de Yak Turd,” but also the indescribable effervescence of fresh Balsam drifting down from the conifer bows curving above our path. As usual the trip passed faster than expected despite constant Yak traffic jams, pauses to admire hand carved Mani prayer stones and of course, countless photo ops.

It was another perfect day of hiking in the Himalaya and we celebrated, against Ade’s best advice, with a round of very cold, very deserved beers upon arrival. The group continues to bond and the energy and spirit of what we are doing is palpable. Up here in the Himalayas it’s hard to believe the reports from home about all the press we are getting, but when you look around at the people here it starts to make sense. There is so much talent, so much dedication and and so much love up here. It takes a special kind of person to do something (crazy) like this and more and more I’m realizing how lucky I am to have snuck in to spend quality time with them all.

On a more personal note I’d like to share with you some thoughts from the trail.

Last night I dreamt my cancer came back.

In the dream I walked through the dark hostel hallways peering into different rooms until I found James. I shook him awake and told him “Dude, Luke is back.” He looked at me and drowsily assured me he had my back and then mumbled something about coloring his hair. I woke up terrified and confused.

I’ve had some strange dreams before, but never this particular one. I’ve thought about my cancer coming back of course, but never in my dreams has this particular possibility arisen.

So why now? Maybe because on this trek, cancer is so present. It’s on everyone’s minds, it’s why we’re here, it’s responsible for all this. This cause, this trek, this music, these people – all of it has come to be because of cancer. You can’t be here and not think about the big C, so it’s natural that it might arise as a topic in one’s dreams.

But it got me thinking, for some of us this trek is more than just a creative fundraiser or never ending music video. For some of us, every step is a reminder of our disease, our treatment and our recovery – whether we want to be reminded or not. So why are we here? We’re not here for the fame or the glory. The cameras aren’t on us, we’re not famous recording artists or climbers, and surely having beaten cancer we don’t have anything to prove. Yes, there is a good cause to support – one my fellow survivors on this trek understand more than anyone, but perhaps there is something more.

At some point I believe, every cancer survivor makes a decision, conscious or otherwise, to move on, to let go, to say goodbye to cancer and leave behind the identity or label of “survivor” and just get on living.

But letting go of cancer is hard. I know. It may in some ways even be harder than beating it.

In the fight you are completely engaged with your whole being, on auto-pilot with a godly determination and belief that this thing will not beat you. Once you realize it hasn’t, things can sometimes get difficult. Who are you now? What does beating cancer really mean? How will you deal with the scars physical or emotional? Why did you make it when so many others did not? How do you know it’s really gone?

Most cancer survivors don’t become famous for it. They don’t star in movies or music videos, they don’t write books, they don’t get medals or awards. Most survivors simply take the little bit of enlightenment that comes with surviving and carry on.

And so here in the mountains surrounded by constant reminders of this disease it’s worth observing that we are also surrounded by much love and support - and powerful, peaceful Himalayan energy. Maybe this is a perfect place to say goodbye. It wont be easy, but with so much love, hope and strength in the air, I can’t help but try.

Eran Thomson
Love Hope Strength
October 17, 2007
Pangboche, Nepal
13,064 ft, 3,981 m

Message from Mike Peters:
By now all our trekking party has gathered at the entrance to the Monastery and we silently head into the inner courtyard. Jake Norton who speaks Nepalese is negotiating our way into the inner sanctum. After a few minutes a Monk comes to talk and say that the Llama is prepared to give one or two of us an audience and blessing. It is decided that Jake, James Chippendale and myself (with Damien on camera) will visit with the Llama and attempt to persuade him to bless our trek. We are lead into the extremely humble private quarters of the Holy Man of this most impotartant Monastery in the Sherpa region.

It was a very powerful moment to be in the presence of such an obviously spiritual human being. We asked him through translation if he would bless the rest of our party only for him to say that he would not be going out today as he wanted to spend his waking hours in contemplation. Again, through translation, James and I thanked him anyway and explained the purpose of our trek and aim to raise money for the cancer centre in Bhaktapur and also to perform the highest concert in the world at Kala Patthar in few days time. As our words were being translated back to him he began clapping his hands and it was explained to us that His Holiness wanted us to take tea with him. Outside the Llama’s window an incredible 180 degree panoramic vista of mountain and snow was revealed. We were all in awe, I thanked the Llama for the tea and wished him ‘Iuechud Dda’ which I explained was a traditional greeting from Wales and meant good health in Welsh. Once this had been translated to him, he raised his cup of hot water to me and said ‘Ieuchud Dda’. It was magical, we asked for a word or mantra to take with us on our forward journey. He closed his eyes deeply and asked us to go in Peace and join him in prayer for stability in Nepal, he then expressed to us that he would indeed like to come outside and bless our fellow trekkers and would also be pleased to have a photograph taken with us. We asked him if we could honour him with a song. He said he would like to sit in the sun and hear our music.

We moved outside to a white domed monument just inside the official entrance to the Monastery and His Holiness sat on a chair amongst us as we received his blessing and had a group photo. Everest and all the surrounding peaks of Nuptse, Lhotse and Ama Dablam (as if summoned to appear by the Llama himself), were majestically towering above us as the sun beat down on this incredible meeting of east and western culture.

Out came the guitars and as a group we sang ‘Love Hope & Strength’ for him while he calmly sat between Glenn Tilbrook and myself who were singing and strumming with all the passion we could muster. Cy Curnin was behind him singing his heart out and Nick and Jamie strummed their instruments at his feet. A gathering of trekkers looked on from outside the Monastery walls and must have wondered what on earth was going on. There was also an audience of robed Monks looking on at their very own Guru in a whole new light. The song came to a close, there was a loud cheer and clapping from all over the hilltop. His Holiness stood up and bowed towards me and almost instantly, literally vanished back into the Monastery to continue his contemplation.

It was an experience to treasure and a collective rush of excitement came over all of our party as we all expressed disbelief in what we had just seen and been a part of. We had all had to be (and wanted to be), so respectful in the presence of His Holiness that now he had gone, we were all able to express the wonderment we had all felt. It was truly amazing. The Monks began singing the song again and I went over to them with my guitar and joined them in a spontaneous reprise. The sun was shining, Everest was looking down on us and it felt so good to be alive in this moment.

Mike Peters
Love Hope Strength
October 17, 2007
Pangboche, Nepal
13,064 ft, 3,981 m

Quote of the day:
Garrie, preparing for a rough morning and hike: “In the words of David Bowie, this is not rock and roll, this is suicide.”

As I type this:
Everyone is sleeping, except for Mike, Oli, Damien, Tom and Shannon who are finalizing the journal and podcasts. Sleep well, tomorrow is bound to be another “AMAZING” day!