October 16, 2007

Today’s story begins yesterday. After a spaghetti supper last night at the guest house in Namche, several members of the team were stricken with what appeared to be food poisoning. Stephanie and Scott were particularly hard hit and spent much of the night interacting energetically to the toilet. In the morning, they emerged bleary-eyed and weathered, but nonetheless committed to make the journey from Namche to Tashinga, a distance of some three or four hours on foot.

Just before 10 a.m., the team set out. We climbed out of the suspended mountain amphitheatre to which the village of Namche Bazar clings and gained a high trail that would gradually take us along the west bank of the Dudh Koshi River that pours southward from Everest’s infamous Khumbu Icefall into the steep valley below. Within the hour we had reached a spectacular stupa memorial commemorating the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Everest on May 29, 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. Here, perched high above the churning river below and soothed by the gentle breeze that fluttered the lines of colorful prayer flags above us, Jamie and Cy put on the morning concert and sang a stirring rendition of “Driven Out,” a FIXX creation that remains timeless, as is the land in which its notes floated skyward. Minutes later, as if ushered forward by the power of the music, the unmistakable summit pyramid of Everest ghosted briefly into view, causing our jaws to drop and our eyes to open in wide-eyed awe. The cameras clicked in staccato.

After this moving celestial display, we headed off toward our day’s objective. I was fitted with a microphone by Stash and together, we headed down the trail as I headed down memory lane. It has been 10 years since I walked this very trail en route to my third attempt on Everest. Then, the circumstances had been very different and I had been very sick, acclimatizing poorly and very concerned about the challenge ahead. This time, although the destination was the same, the mission was far more important. I marveled at Stash’s ability to deftly handle a $50,000 USD state-of-the-art HD digital video camera while walking backwards over rocky terrain at close to 12,000 feet. His level of commitment to his craft and his obvious passion for his profession left me more amazed than even the literally breathtaking environment around us.

Gradually, the trail wound its way past steep rock walls and along stone steps and surprisingly, began to descend into a warm and inviting pine and Rhododendron forest. From there, Sonam Sherpa directed us off the main trail and to a narrow footpath that dove into the woods and took us for the first time off the beaten track. It was simultaneously exciting and a little unsettling. Where could he be taking us? Within minutes, we had our answer as something akin to the Himalayan version of a French chateau popped out of the trees. Graced with a rock garden of stunning red poppies, yellow chrysanthemums and orange carnations popping like an oasis from the rugged mountain landscape, the Everest Summit Lodge would quickly redefine opulence in the outdoors and set a standard that surpassed even its sister property in Monjo where we had stayed a few days earlier. On the lawn of this glorious stone structure honed by hand, we tucked ourselves into a dozen or so cozy wicker chairs and marveled not only at our surreal surroundings but the day’s miraculous transition from the bustling Sherpa commercial center of Namche to this gem in the wilderness. There, at 11,600 feet, the high tea redefined the term. Ben said it was the best he had ever tasted, as was the Scotch that followed and the gloriously hot shower he had as a chaser. After an hour or so of bathing ourselves in this pampered luxury, we assembled in the spacious dining room for lunch. Victoriously, Stephanie and Scott joined us. Several trekkers showed great love in giving Stephanie a gentle massage, we hoped they would continue their climb back and together we celebrated their strength. When the heavens opened up into a thunderstorm that dusted the hills above in a fresh sprinkling of snow only to launch a sunset light show that left James unable to utter anything beyond “Oh, My God,” “Oh, My God,” we all felt nearer to a Higher Power. That power surpassed that of even the Mother Goddess of Everest herself. To say that it was an unforgettable day would be a bit like describing Everest as a hill. It transcended the memorable, became the ethereal and most of all, the spiritual. If the concert at Kala Patthar tops it, it will only be because the added magic of the music takes the power of love, hope and strength to new heights.

Alan Hobson
Love Hope Strength
October 16, 2007
Tashinga, Nepal
11,524 ft, 3,512 m

Quotes of the day.

Garrie: “Do these satellite phones work in the dark?”

James and a bunch of us had outside our lodge after the rain and snow ceased and the clouds parted revealing a 360 degree view of snow capped peaks.
James: “dude. dude. duuuude. Dude! Dude!!!! DUDE!!! DUUUUUUUDE!!!

Owner of lodge in Namche bazar: “You used internet and owe me 120 rupees”
Eran: “You gave us food poisoning, that cost 200 rupees. That means you owe me 80.”

As I type:

• Alan and James are hugging after Alan just completed an emotional reading from his book “Climb Back from Cancer” documenting his moment when he first learned he had cancer.
• Jamie, Cy, Nick and Damien are rocking out next to me to one of Damien’s originals to lighten the mood.
• Julie and Scott are listening intently to the music. Scott looks like a new man after making it through a rough 24 hours.
• Oli and Mike are sitting across the table mapping out how to do a concert on Kala Patthar. Will the PA work at 18,500 feet? How will we fit on the peak? Which guitars will they play? How long will it take to set up?
• Mike J, Stan, Vince, Ade, Meghan, Peter and Aden are playing cards.
• George is star watching
• Jake is editing the days photos while Dan, Garrie and Slim watch on.
• Stephanie has gone off for an early night. She and Scott deserve medals for today – they were both amazing troopers and never complained for one second after getting a bout of food poisoning. Both are on the mend.
• Glenn, Mark, Christine, Rini, Tracie, Matt, Kris, Eran, Ben, Sean have gone off to write in journals and get an early night as we have a long day ahead of us tomorrow.
• Tom, Stash and Alex are editing today’s podcast. Not sure if anyone can appreciate what they are accomplishing up here. To my knowledge no one has ever filmed, edited and uploaded podcasts from Everest within hours of the action.
• I, Shannon, am sitting in awe that this is actually happening around me. We get every single one of your text messages. A highlight of each day is reading them aloud at family meals. Please keep them coming, we appreciate every one of them!

A note from Stephanie:
“I just wanted to say hello to my family and friends and let you know that I had a rough night last night. It seems that myself, and fellow trekker Scott were hit with a bout of food poisoning. I awoke around 1 a.m. And found myself in the bathroom not feeling so hot. Needless to say, I didn’t get much sleep as I was continually running to the toilet! Yuck! Thankfully today was to be a short, light hike, and Shannon, bless her heart, let Scott and I sleep in and we took off a few hours after the rest of the crew. I have to say, it was the longest shortest hike ever! Having no fuel in our bodies, unable to eat anything, it was just one foot in front of the other. And finally 3 hours later we made it! Feeling a bit better tonight and was able to get some food down. So, I’m off to bed for some needed rest and hopefully all will be right tomorrow! Will keep updated! Love to all!!!”
Stephanie