The blog is back…

October 25th, 2007

We’re back in Namche Bazaar - civilisation, almost. Well, internet cafes and mobile phone coverage anyway.

So much has happened since my last blog. Where to start?

When I last wrote, we’d been staying in pretty good accommodation - it certainly got worse the further up the mountain we went. Basic might be a bit generous. All but 5 out 38 of us got sick along the way - 16 on the one day in Dingboche!

As we got higher, the altitude really kicked in and made every step difficult. But 35 out of 38 made it up to Kala Patthar for (officially per the Guiness Book of Records) the highest gig on land.

The day up to Kala Patthar was the toughest - physically challenging and emotionally draining. After an early start and a 3 hour walk to Gorak Shep gaining 800m, we had an early lunch before another 3 hour hike up another 800m to Kala Pattar. I wasn’t sure if I’d be able to do it. Having eaten virtually nothing in 3 days (the smell of the tea houses - burning yak dung - and the same food everyday) had killed my appetite and any food made me nauseous.

For someone who is not overly emotional I found myself in tears for no reason at the challenge ahead. Jake Norton, one of our guides and 3 time Everest Summiter (he was in the group that found Mallery’s body in 1999) gave an inspirational speech quoting Mallery from the 1920s and then Mike also inspired us upwards with (Never Give Up) Without A Fight.

We made it to the top and the gig was great and then we were in bed my 6.30pm completely exhausted.

The next day was an optional 7 hour return hike to Everest Base Camp. Over half the crew decided to give it a miss and took a rest day at Gorak Shep. Kris and I both did it. We felt we had to as Base Camp had always been the end destination (although the gig had been moved to Kala Patthar as it is higher than Base Camp and has views of Everest that Base Camp doesn’t). Our further motivation was that we couldn’t stand the thought of spending the day in the tea house!!

The way down has been fun. We’re minus 3 people - Slim Jim and his mate Garrie took a helicopter down - and one other trekker who had been sick decided to jump ship too. Last night we were back at the Everest Summit Lodge at Teshinga - it’s like a French chateau nestled into the hillside. We all enjoyed our first (hot) shower for a week, ensuite with western toilets - no more squatting, holding one’s nose against the stench. And a fantastic dinner - chilli chicken - our first meat for over a week.

In the evening we were treated to Glenn performing many of Squeeze’s biggest hits (Pulling Mussels, Black Coffee in Bed, Up the Junction etc) and then playing requests which turned into a bit of a Bowie singalong fest. Then after dinner Cy and Jamie from The Fixx mesmorised us with a jamming session. All the musicians have been great, mixing with everyone just like the regular trekkers but at the same time keeping us entertained along the way.

Tomorrow night we’re in Lukla (a long walk tomorrow), then we fly back to Kathmandu on Saturday morning. Some R&R, shopping, a visit to the Bakphutar (spelling?) cancer hospital that is benefiting from our fundraising and then the grand finale concert in the main square in Kathmandu on Monday. It’s a free show and they’re expecting anything from 10,000 to 25,000 people and it’s going out live on Nepal TV.

That’s all for now.

See you all in a week or so.

Cheers

Matt

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